Archive for the 'Exploring' Category
Is This The Way To Granadilla? Just Follow That Bus

Encouraged by the Icod esperience my Bournemouth friends Karen and Neal were ready for another TITSA bus tour of Tenerife, flicking through my memories I realised it was at least 3 years since I had been to Granadilla so it seemed a good a destination as any. Meeting in Los Cristianos the sun was bright and Roque del Conde stood proud as it gazed down upon us with its light and dark patchwork of colours. The 470 bus was bang on time and only half full so off we set along the TF1 motorway with generous diversions down into Guaza, Costa del Silencio and through Los Abrigos before heading up through San Isidro.

It was noticeable cooler at Granadillabut still bright and the quiet sedate streets oozed charm against the Villaflor and teide backdrop. Hermano Pedro the Canaries is never far from the thoughts in his home municipality and outside the town hall at the Plaza Gonzalez Mena his bust reminds people of his heritage. It’s weird but the town hall building was being white washed, I’m sure they had just started it on my last visit, well its nice to be thorough. The tight streets of Granadilla were decorated for christmas with minimal trimmings but also an impressive series of festive themed paintings on the end of each terrace of shops. Heading out to the main church od San Antonio de Padua we saw a handfull of hikers, Granadilla is a popular springboard to the walking trails above and beyond and a great advert for rural tourism.

A couple of clouds ganged up on us and sprayed us with rain through some watery sunshine so we adjourned to a nice cosy bar. The walls were covered with old photos of the local area and some more recent ones reminded me that the snows of Mount Teide reached down into the plaza here just 5 years ago, probably the nearest it gets to the coast, just glancing distance below. The rain soon dried up and we carried on our exploring, I was hoping to find the old spring that fed the town with water but it proved elusive, I was hoping it was the secret fountain of youth, I could do with some of that. Walking to the other end of town the views down to Montaña Roja, El Medano and the heavily laden orange trees in between were wonderful and added to the quiet beauty of Granadilla.

Next stop was El Medano for some beach life, the bus flew down with the odd bit of sudden breaking keeping us alert in our seats on the 30 minute journey. The weather was glorious in El Medano, kite and board surfers shot the waves, sunbathers crammed into every spare spot and the promenade cafes were sizzling with warm flesh. Earlier on our bus we had noticed that concertinas were the in thing, several potential buskers were front loaded and ready to squeeze out a tune, one was on the front at El Medano, his organ looked a bit discoloured but I believe you can get some ointment for that. I had to share my pancake craving so we popped into La Boheme in the walkway behind the recently saved Hotel El Medano, sweet and savoury delights as we watched the world and its large collection of assorted dogs pass by. A brief walk later we returned to the restaurant opposite and enjoyed a coffee on their terrace overlooking the sea, it was a natural sun trap and my gaze was torn between the young lady peeling down her top on the next table and the young ladies bathing below – oh the natural charms of the bay and Montaña Roja also managed to turn my head.

With plenty of time to play with we decided to march up to the main road and at least part way out of El Medano before catching a bus, it turned into a fair old hike in the beating sun. We rounded the surfers beach, the nature reserve and the camping area before taking the shade at the bus stop just as a cloud rolled over and blotted out the sun. As it didn’t look quite so promising we decided to bypass Los Abrigos and stretch the Bono tickets to Las Galletas, a brief shower greeted our arrival but a drink stop in a cafe transformed the scene back to a bright evening. Las Galletas was fairly busy and a stroll along the front and a short exploration of the shopping precinct passed some more time wisely. That just left a short hop back to Los Cristianos to finish the day with some tapas and beer at El Faro, another TITSA triumph.

The Wander Bug Meets the Butterfly In Icod

Unsettled and changeable best describes recent weather in Tenerife but to my holidaying friends Neal and Karen on the run from Bournemouth snow, it was just what they needed and as they wanted to taste the TITSA touring experience we headed off to Icod de los Vinos. Rising up into the hills the early sun was soon covered by low cloud although it did filter through for a wonderful rainbow nearly touching the road just by Santiago del Teide. Passing through some drizzle we dropped down into Icod and a decent sunny day, the tight back streets were bathed in festive classics in a Canarian stylie from the speakers at key points along the shopping parade. The local businesses had even laid on free wrapping in the street – the present sort not the bling and baseball cap musical variety.

Heading along for a gawp at the Drago tree brought us to the Plaza Andres de Lorenzo Caceres for a spot of lunch, decent prices and a lovely setting among the mix of strange knarled trees and the rather out of place multi coloured kiddies car ride. News had reached us of nearby Garachico’s 3 million euro collective win on El Gordo, the Spanish christmas lottery, was that a wave crashing as we looked out along the coast, or just another large bottle of champers being cracked open? The big famous Drago tree walled in just below the plaza gets all the attention but there are plenty more in the area so we headed up the road to worship a slightly smaller neglected tree hidden away in its own small crumbling plaza – I think we might start an appeal to help it. It was then we spotted a museum, Casa de Los Caceres, a fabulous old two tier house packed with some great food influenced art like a human figure made of lentils, peas, and chick peas, I think the artist was Jamie Oliver but I wouldn’t swear to it. Coming out there was a large crowd gathered as 2 chaps performed some street theatre.

Heading back down to the plaza it started raining so we dived into the Mariposario, the Butterfly Zoo. I have meant to visit this zoo for a long time, they have had run ins with the local council and it has been open and closed more often than Jordans legs. It doesn’t look much on the outside but once inside it opens up into a huge tropical greenhouse with plants, flowers and a stream running through. The butterflies were amazing, so many of them all around us and such a range of colours. A large lizard lounging on a tree bough looked like he was stuffed after eating a feast of butterflies but he flicked his tail now and then just to show willing. As the butterflies landed on us we had to resist the natural urge to brush them off, don’t want to destroy the stock. I can’t believe some woman had taken her dog in with her, small yappy and wrinkly around the face, but the dog looked quite nice.

Deciding to head south we stopped at a bar next to the bus station where a few locals were glued to a very old western on the TV, resisting some gems among the station shop DVD collection – Kojak when he was so young he still needed a comb- we waited for our bus as a young Ninja stretched his legs up the side of another bus and played out a rythm on the side with a rolled up newspaper, of course he got on our bus and continued his impromptu drumming all the way down to Guia de Isora where we got off. Town was fairly quiet apart from a kids party in the church square, sadly they didn’t seem to want us on th bouncy castle so we found a bouncy bar along the main road and savoured the last sun of the day as we had a few drinks. Guia were playing CD Marino at the football ground, just as well as the floodlights were the only illumination for the bus station next door, we were joined by a young pretty Eastern European lady who didn’t seem to know where she was heading and was gonna wait on her own in the near dark for an hour. Thankfully we persuaded the lost lass to get on our bus and head back to Las Americas, she only had a 50 euro note that the driver couldn’t change, Karen rescued her by paying with her Bono ticket, not nice to imagine the lady left on her own with just broken English and a 50 euro note to help her.

Our trip was brief, just a few stops down to Tejina to meet up with The General from the Armada Sur, by now it was getting a bit chilly but the pizza bar was welcoming and served up some nice local food to warm us up as we spilled our story of the day. TITSA buses give a good service and our 10 pm bus was spot on time to whisk us back to Las Americas and Los Cristianos. Another rewarding day exploring Tenerife in good company, with a few Doradas thrown in for good measure.

A Crispy Day In Las Galletas

All my fault, nothing to do with the weather, alien forces or Guy Fawkes bonfires. I looked at my broom and thought I really must sweep my balcony and of course that brought on a calima , hot dry sand and dust from the Sahara, hanging in the air adding a subtle filter to the blue sky to give a greenhouse effect. I strolled down to my 8.30 am swim to be met by a hair dryer blast and Guaza Mountain partly hiding in the increasing haze. The wind was gusting in little spurts so I decided to catch the bus just along the coast to the fishing village of Las Galletas as the small beach there is embraced by the marina and normally immune to large waves.

How remiss of me, seems like 8 months or so since I nipped over to this lovely village, and of course I noticed some changes. The beach had a yellow flag, almost unheard of in that back water, but there was little more than a ripple moving over the sea on the beach side. I took a stroll along the promenade of Avenida Simon Bolivar and that side was much livelier, no young surf dudes trying the small waves today but there was definately some power to them. Walking on into the back street area it was sad to see the gap on the front where several old houses were recently bulldozed, it just makes the ones left behind look even more unloved. Thankfully there is some new input, the low mosaic walls at key points add a nice touch and the tourist information office has had a makeover.

Heading into the Calle Central pedestrianised shoping area it was quiet and sedate as always so I found a nice shady spot to enjoy a coffee and a snack. There’s a lovely charm to Las Galletas and i felt guilty that I have neglected it lately. Moving back through the tight old streets the sun streamed through the gaps and I was suddenly wanting a P… or any other letter, the hezagonal pavement blocks always remind me of Blockbusters. La Rambla, runing adjacent to the sea front walk, is another lovely restful area strewn with benches along the palm lined avenue, a good afternoon snoozing spot.

After hitting the shingle beach for some vigourous swimming I ventured onto the Marina del Sur to see how it was faring. It was opened 2 years ago but is still not in full use, the Policia Local office is empty and the fishermans bright modern workspace is also untouched as they continue to trade from the old shacks at the front of the beach. At least a couple of the units are open as restaurants and bars overlooking the busy marina where the pontoons groan under a full load of pleasure boats and fishing craft. I walked around to the end where it justs out into the open sea and noticed that another new bar has opened complete with a small plaza to sit and enjoy the crescent shaped harbour.

Time to head back for Los Cristianos as the mountains were gradually rubbed out by the thickening calima. By the time i got home, my swimming towel needed just 30 minutes to become dry and crispy. Tomorrow looks like another dusty day, maybe my balcony will have to wait for its pending brush up.

Flying High Among The Arts In North Tenerife

Give me a Spirograph or some Paint Wheels and eventually I might churn out something vaquely resembling art, but it’s highly unlikely. Best leave it to the experts, with that in mind I hopped on a Titsa 111 bus to Santa Cruz, eager to see the Prado exhibition at the Espacio Cultural Caja Canarias. Under the title El Retrato Español En El Prado they are showing 73 classic portraits featuring Spanish born or based artists like Goya and El Greco. I intended to browse some of the Prado museum on 2 football visits to Madrid last season but the lure of the beer won over and I explored some very artistic bars instead.

The portraits were top notch, they knew how to throw the paint around in those days, and well worth the 5 euro entrance fee, it would have been just 2 euros if I had got my new residencia, or free if I banked with Caja Canarias. You have until 8th January 2011 to have a nose around but can read a full review at www.tenerifemagazine.com . A trip to Santa Cruz often leads me on to La Laguna, any excuse to use the tram, so off I headed with no particular plan in mind. Arriving there I had a tour around the main streets before nipping into one of my favourite art stops. The Instituto Canarias in Calle San Agustin stages some small but free and interesting exhibitions, the latest Horizontes Insulares features works by island based artists. a chequer pattern based display by Gregorio Gonzalez (above) was pretty eye catching but I was hooked by some video art from Cuba’s Sandra Ramos. Slipping on the earphones and watching the large screen I watched 5 quirky and clever videos of 2 to 3 minutes each that tickled the eyes and ears with animated stories with an island theme. a seperate room at the end of the gallery featured video projections of scenery on la Reunion Island. This display runs until 17 November, Monday to Friday 10am to 8pm and 10am to 3pm on Saturday.

After grabbing some food in the Plaza del Adelantado I was soon back on the tram and heading down into Santa Cruz. Plaza Weyler is always a good place to get off and wander down Calle Castillo towards Plaza de España. part way down I spotted an old friend, Icarus, in large metallic sculpture form. Mythology says he built wings from feathers and wax and soared into the sky but getting carried away he flew too high and the sun melted the wax leading to a fatal crash to earth. Sculptor Julio Nieto made Icaro Salvado as part of a touring street exhibition last year and I talked to him about his works, you can read that at Tenerife Magazine. This time Icarus is stationed outside Casa Elder where 70 assorted art works are on display until 22 October, sadly it was closed for my visit but is open Monday to Friday 10am to 8pm. The busy shopping street was spellbound and many shoppers stoppedto pose in the shadow of the metal man. Time for me to go but thank you Santa Cruz and La Laguna, it was a pleasure as always.

Trying To Tell My Arts From My Elbow In Tenerife

Waking up in an arty farty frame of mind, I put on my cravat, adjusted my blazer, and headed up north to Santa Cruz. I’m no expert but I do love to dip into the wide and varied art scene that flourishes in Santa Cruz and La Laguna in particular. First port of call was a new venue for me, Centro de Arte la Recova just past La Noria as you head into the heart of the capital. New York bio artist Marlene Tseng Yu has an exhibition called Forces of Nature on until 27 August and like so many places in Tenerife, it is FREE.

Marlene’s work, acrylic on canvas is on a grand scale and centres on the environment and the beauty of our planet. La Recova is a large shell of a building and well suited to host such a display. The 16 works were all bright, vibrant and bursting with natural energy. Too often the art galleries are poorly supported but there was a steady trickle of visitors as I wandered around. the exhibition opens 11am to 1pm and 6pm to 9pm every day except Sunday, when it is closed, and it runs until 27 August.

I didn’t get very far after leaving the building, next door is the Teatro Guimera, a beautiful old theatre built in 1848 and currently undergoing a major facelift. It would have been all finished by now but the heavy rain and floods at the turn of the year did a lot of damage, hopefully it will now open in September, I will defnately have to take in a show there to see it in all its glory. It is named after poet and playwright Angel Guimera y Yorge who lived from 1845 to 1924. Most passing tourists snap a photo of the distinctive theatrical mask sculpture outside but I thought it was time that the inspiration for the building got his mug shot taken.

Where to next on this voyage of discovery? How about Plaza de España and a chance to catch up on the newly re-opened remains of the Castillo San Cristobal, one of the original defensive strongholds that helped to repel us horrible Brits and several other nationalities. the castle was built in 1575 but it was demolished in 1928 to make way for the Plaza de España, the centre piece of Santa Cruz. There was a nice surprise for the people of Santa Cruz when in 2006 Plaza de España was dug up for the new lake project, and underground part of the original castle wall was found standing firm. It was restored along with the main plaza and opened to the public but those heavy storms earlier this year flooded it out and more work was needed. I saw the first version and it was a bit plain, and the old section of wall with little explanation didn’t really do the history proud. This new version is loads better, much more information in Spanish and English, a big focus on the attack by Nelson, commentary with drum sound affects for the wall, and a seperate room for the famous Tiger canon. The Tigre has been credited with blowing Nelsons arm clean off, but as the guide notes explain,that is not proven, it did hole one of the British ships and played a big part in defeating the British earning it’s place in local folklore. The Castillo is open to the public Mon, Weds, Thurs and Fri from 10am to 6pm and Saturday and Sunday from 11am to 7pm, closed Tuesdays.

Having neglected La Laguna lately, and always up for a ride on the tram, I took the 30 minute glide up to the university city. One of my regular stops there is the Instituto de Canarias Cabrera Pinto in Calle San Agustin, they always have an interesting exhibition running. The latest is called 25ft_10 Orientaciones and features new views of everyday scenes from around Tenerife in drawings, paintings and photos. There is even a wedding area complete with a long reception table with scattered flowers and remains of a feast. I liked the photos of Sergio Real, revealing some hidden corners of daily life in small villages. The exhibitions here are always FREE and it’s nice to check up on the slow restoration process being carried out on the old Convent of San Agustin. The latest display is open Monday to Friday 10am to 8pm and Saturday 10am to 3pm. There are a lot of roadworks going on at the moment around the historic back waters of but its fairly easy to pick your way through and always rewarding.

Tramming back to Santa Cruz I got off and Plaza Weyler and walked down into the heart of the city and rounded my trip off with my usual papas bravas and churros de pescado at the kiosk on Plaza del Principe. it’s a lovely shady spot to watch the world bustle by and follow the green parakeets flitting from tree to tree. Not a bad old way to spend the day.

Go On Take A Walk On The North Side With Hotel Las Aguilas

Like David Banner at the end of The Hulk or Cain at the end of Kung Fu, I feel compelled to walk into the distance and try new destinations, thankfully in my case without green fits or flattening the locals after announcing that I Come In Peace. Tenerife is perfect for my wandering spirit and the north has proved rich ground for some wonderful trips. For readers of Tenerife Magazine it could all be slightly easier and a whole lot more comfortable with a weeks free half board holiday for two people at Hotel Las Aguilas in Puerto de la Cruz.

That’s the latest prize on offer for simply being a Facebook fan of Tenerife Magazine and getting pulled out of the draw on 2nd August. Then it’s up to you what you do, I’m not going to nag and tell you about all those wonderous places you ned to visit like the Drago tree at Icod de Los Vinos, the Garachico rock pools and volcanic mound of rock spat into the sea by a major eruption of Mount Teide, and the wine trail at La Orotava that will leave you struggling to walk in a straight line. Wild horses and even countless repeats of Friends couldn’t force me to divulge the location of all those lovely coffee and cake cafes and bizarre bars that I have encountered on my travels. It’s up to you to go and explore.

Mind you I can understand if you just want to relax by the two large swimming pools at Las Aquilas, or enjoy the four star luxury service and views. Maybe try out the tennis and padel courts or the three restaurants and show bar. The 10.000 square metres of gardens may well distract your interest and the modern spacious layout will give you time to chill. For some history and culture the easy way just hop on the regular free shuttle bus into Puerto de la Cruz and explore the rugged sea front and a myriad of back street shops and restaurants. Basically there is plenty to do during your stay.

You still have time to win a week’s half board holiday for two people. All you need to do is be a Facebook fan of Tenerife Magazine by the closing date of 31st July. The draw will be made on 2nd August, is not transferable and must be claimed within 2 weeks of the draw or it will be re-drawn. The prize voucher can be used until the end of 2010, not open to staff or relatives of Tochdocun or Grupo Gomasper.

If you want to know more about Hotel Las Aguilas try the website www.hotellasaguilas.com or give them a ring on (0034) 922372806 or drop them an email reserves@hotellasaguilas.com

Eastern Promise And A Lark in The Santa Cruz Park

Up with the cock and in Santa Cruz by 8.30 am, early mornings are very lovely in Tenerife. Heading up the motorway on the 111 Titsa bus the sun rose up over the western mountains and bathed the coastline as hunters went about their business in the rocky wastelands beyond the laybys and bus stops. With plenty of time to spare I caught the tram to La Paz and caught up on a daily paper over a coffee and doughnut, the Spanish met office were predicting a record hot summer in the Canary Islands, pushing 40 degrees – maybe I wont need those thick socks.

I had a 9.30 am appointment at the Hotel Escuela with visiting Indian chef Ramamoorthy Swaminathan for www.tenerifemagazine.com . It was strange killing time around the desrted Heliodoro stadium, home to my beloved CD Tenerife and weird to think that despite the hotel entrance being a few yards opposite the usual Armada Sur turnstile, i had never set foot in there. Anyway it was a good interview and I had the full hotel tour from the helpful manageress, read it on www.tenerifemagazine.comÂ

Once in Santa Cruz I never ignore the chance to explore and check to see if anything has changed or there is anything interesting going on. My wanders took me down to Plaza Weyler and along to Parque Garcia Sanabria, always a lovely stop off. After reading that there is a new art exhibition in the park gallery, I had to pop in. Mecanic Comic by Oscar Perez turned out to be a collection of bright surreal paintings all with a very similar theme, it didn’t really float my artistic boat, bit too samey, I like diverse images. It is FREE so if up that way pop in from Monday to Saturday from 11am to 1pm and 6pm to 9pm or Sundays and holidays 10.30am to 1pm.

The park is a visually stunning set of leafy walkways centreing on a huge ornate fountain, there is always free expression going on, at Carnaval time it gets very expressive! I stopped to watch two big groups of mainly ladies going through their Tai Chi paces, very relaxing just to watch and they all seemed to be getting some benefit from it. Further down a group of amateur painters were dabbling on their canvas’s, maybe a new genius was among them, drawing breath is as good as I get so I admired their work for a while. Down by the flower clock I stopped for a cold drink at the cafe and watched the world go by – and all this before dinnertime. Sadly my interview notes were burning a hole in my pocket so it was time to head back to the south, inspired by another joñlly jaunt up north.

On The Trail Of The Vilaflor Pine

When you turned your water taps on this afternoon I bet you were blissfully unaware that my rather sweaty bottom was resting on a deliciously cool main water pipe running down through the Vilaflor valley. It was just a short shade, food and cold drink break on another enjoyable walk into the green and welcoming interior of Tenerife.

The regular Saturday morning walkers were down to the bare bones, just four of us in all, but eager and willing to test ourselves against another scorching sun and clear blue sky. Driving up from Los Cristianos we stopped off for a coffee at a small cafe on a tight bend in Ifonche, the day was just getting into its stride and keen motorcyclists were buzzing up the hill headed for Teide national park. Onward up through La Escalona and around the village of Vilaflor, we parked up by the football ground looking down on the main road that heads on to Teide. There was a busy cultural fair Comarcal del Sur in the ground complete with workshops, gymkhana, music and sport, but we had a route to march.

Up past the first of many water reservoirs, we found the steep track carving its way between an army of tall pine trees. the buzz of the fairs P.A was joined by the hum of an overhead helicopter but that soon faded and the tranquil air was our only companion. To one side we could see the terraced hills, closer examination revealed the hard work and skill that had gone into making the walls that protect the fields from the winds and erosion. As the path rose and twisted there was also admiration for those who maintain the walks, large stones mark the boundaries and sawn off logs held in by metal pins make some of the corner turns a little safer underfoot.

Reaching a rocky cliff the pine forest fell away below and to one side we could see the ocre red soil that gives the mountain and walk its distinctive flavour. Pine cones like footballs littered the trail as we took a downward turn and glimpsed the large reservoir through the tree tops. Zig zagging down some testing terrain we found our shady resting spot for a breather, not only could I feel the coolness of the water in the pipe I sat on, I could also hear it rushing through at a fair pace. The Spaghetti Junction of pipes and control valves further round made me appreciate what goes into spilling water into my bath for my rubber duck.

Refreshed we moved on and it seemed all uphill again now, turning the brow of a hill we found a remote rural house, the owners, with slumbering guard dog nearby, told us the main part was 130 years old. The side add ons sported solar panels, enough to supply all electrical needs and with Vilaflor as a garden it was pretty impressive. Attacking the last stage we crossed dry barrancos but deep gashes in the main path showed where the last heavy rain had ripped through, one last rise and we were back at the main road.

The walk had seemed more ups than downs but we came out 2 kms down the hill from our starting point at a rough track by Km17, before the turn off to the start of the village. a determined effort, and a cold drink stop, got us up the steep road side lined with tajinaste plants bristling with bees and back to the last remnants of the cultural fair. The whole walk had taken just under 4 hours and was packed with more natural evidence of the diversity of Tenerife.

Tree Cheers for Icod de Los Vinos And The Long Road Home

That wise old sage Jeff Beck once sang “Your Everywhere And Nowhere Baby” maybe he had heard of my excursions into the nether regions of Tenerife. Another scorching day was setting out its stall as I made the short hop from Los Cristianos to the Las Americas bus station, a quick coffee upstairs reassured me that after a few years of neglect the cafe is back to its best with a good choice of snacks and a cool breeze blowing through from the roof terrace. Downstairs the 460 TITSA bus to Icod de Los Vinos was waiting and a 90 minute climb up through the twists and turns of Guia de Isora and over the tight high bends of Sanatiago del Teide brought me into Icod bus station with its wonderful wall mural bringing a smile to my face.

I have only made fleeting visits to Icod before so was glad to spend some time exporing, the main road leading out of town is a dull mix of old and new buildings including an awful modern white block church. Thankfully on the way back towards the station I found a small old church in the Plaza del Calvario, well worth a short detour to appreciate the amazing statues and decor crammed into such a tiny area. Just across from there the pedestrianised Calle San Agustin led me into the old quarter of town and a tight array of shops snaking down to the Ayuntamiento (council) building. A fine building like this would make you want to pop in and shake your councilors hands every day, the stone steps to the plaza flanked by statues and its setting at a corner junction gave it the look of a benevolant provider smiling down on its people.

Following the old lane past busy cafes and restaurants I arrived at another plaza and the church of San Marcos Evangelista. This was clearly a focal point for fiestas as a small stage was still in place and the sprawling plaza included a central cafe and a convenient viewpoint looking down over the famous Drago tree in its walled garden. There are many other smaller Dragos around the north but this one is probably the oldest and its knarled trunk and branches are full of character. Looking back at the lane I was equally impressed by stacked wooden balconies on the nearest building, a fine example of another great tradition. With a little time to spare before my bus, I found a nice restaurant just down from the bus station and enjoyed a ice filled cold drink and a snack. In the bar they had a shelf full of beer bottles from around the world, my eyes were instantly drawn to a bottle of Bishops Finger, a real ale treat that I have quaffed back in the UK.

My next selection from the map was San Juan de la Rambla simply because I had never been there before, jumping on a 363 bus for Puerto de la Cruz I had to be alert to get off at the side of the motorway 15 minutes later. Taking the rat run tunnel under the road I took the steep descent down towards the sea, to say it was quiet was an understatement, there was hardly anyone around and certainly no bars, shops etc. Arriving at the Las Aquas part of town I was greeted by a rugged rocky coast and just one restaurant at the far end, there was a small spit of rock out in the sea, a scaled down version of the Garachico bolder propelled into the sea by a huge volcanic explosion. Puffing back up the hill I took a right turn and found a closed tourist information centre, a church plaza and a roadside plaza that was more like a layby – all of them were deserted. A quick wander turned up no signs of life in the street beyond so I back tracked and found a cultural centre social club for a much needed cold drink. There were a dozen or so people in there and it was quite impressive, like a very basic and old fashioned gentlemans club with a restaurant, and games room leading off the bar.

With unusually good timing I turned up at the bus stop just as my Icod bus pulled off the motorway, and was back in time to stretch my legs before catching the 460 Playa Las Americas bus, but only as far as Guia de Isora an hour away. Breaking off for an hour I had a wander into the historic centre of Guia and the leafy church plaza which was pretty well deserted - I was starting to think I had trodden in something. Of course most people with any sense were hiding indoors away from the scorching sun but a mere 30 odd degrees isn’t going to stop me exploring. Guia is a lovely unspoilt place and as I walked back down to the main road I looked out to Playa San Juan and the Atlantic in the heat haze below. Thankfully I found an open cafe/bar, my thirst and my bladder were keeping about even pace. I noticed that the cafe had a cards competition coming up with bottles of spirits for third and second place but “a pig” as the first prize, good for several meals or if you are sqeamish, a new and unusual pet to share the sofa when you watch the World Cup.

My Bono bus ticket was flexing in my pocket, must be bus time again so back to the neat little Guia station and a short 10 minute hop down to Tejina de Guia to meet some friends that live there. As this was the last stop off I was able to spend a relaxing evening enjoying the sunset in good company outside one of the bars with a few Doradas quenching my raging thirst. With a constant eye on my watch I was able to get the last 417 bus back to Los Cristianos at 10.45, a smooth hours run before heading home to bed. What a great day of travelling and my Bono bus ticket had amazingly only clocked up just under 10 euros.

Partying is An Art Form In Santa Cruz

Never before has a TITSA bus journey been so quick but seemed to last so long. I like people, it’s great to hear their stories and experiences but yesterday on my early 110 bus to Santa Cruz I met my match.

Some old English gent from the West Country on holiday told me his life story, interspersed with great detail about the history of power stations, all the Johnny Foreigners he had met around the world, and his views on the political structure of the leading nations. Not having a pillow at hand to suffocate him, I smiled politely and nodded then ran off screaming once I bade farewell at Santa Cruz. Never mind I slackened my pace as I reached Calle Castillo and popped through to Plaza Chicharo.

Sunday 30th May is Dia de Canarias, the national holiday, and judging by the amount of scaffolding turning into staging, it’s going to be a big celebration. Plaza del Principe is hosting Santa Cruz, Identity and Tradition from 28 May to 31st. The sound system should be enough to blast seagulls off the rocks over in La Gomera, and the stage is already decorated with paintings of dancers in traditional dress. In part of the smaller plaza a stall was selling tickets for the big Alicia Keys concert on the dockside on Sunday 6 June, it should be a good antedote to Whitney Houstons no show.

Anyway down to business, I had decided to take a look around the Museo Municipal De Belles Artes (Museum of Fine Arts) just behind Plaza del Principe in Calle Jose Murphy, for another www.tenerifemagazine.com feature. I feel sorry for the Tenerife government and the local councils, they serve up some great art and culture but the galleries and museums I go to are never busy – maybe they know I am coming and dive out of the back door. This museum is FREE all the time, you can’t say fairer than that, the lower floor held two modern art displays with local lass Cristina Temes showing off some bright colourful still life studies and a few surprise extras. One small room contained a classroom scene, a circle of small chairs complete with tiny childrens shoes – unusual but quite hypnotic. In a dark room at the other end projected images on thin canvas were quite effective. I couldn’t make out if the loud rap music was part of the display or just the security guard trying to relieve her boredom.

I passed on upstairs pursued by my new shadow, and found a series of large wine red rooms showing huge traditional historic scenes of family banquets and stately homes. I was hopeless at art in school, even those books with numbers to follow looked like an explosion in a paint factory after I had been at them. Maybe that’s why I admire these grand works, they must take months of dedication to get all the subtle shades and character. the museum has a a large painting adorned room at the end with a piano on a stage, my shadow told me they have musical recitals a few times a year, quite a setting. Taking photos is frowned upon in the museum but I managed a few after telling my shadow that I had just seen Tom Cruise lowering himself down from the ceiling in the other room.

Re-emerging into the slightly cool Santa Cruz air, I was pleased with my visit and made a mental note to get inside the nearby Circulo de Amistad building (above) on a future trip, the doorman looked quite forboding, maybe I could distract him with a copy of Playboy –  or Playgirl – lets not be judgemental.  Frantic cleaning duties were taking place in the empty Plaza de España lake, looke like something special is planned for Sunday, I feel a return trip coming on. Heading back to the bus station I kept an eye out for my earlier bus friend, if he was on the bus, I would climb into the luggage rack. Thankfully it was all clear for my journey back to the south.